Shoe.



F. R. SCOTT.

SHOE

APFLICA'HON FILED OCT. :2. 1915.

1,1 85,007. Patented May 30, 1916.

E1:/ @713507 Jzzzmzk i3. Goo a W MWM QMMJ UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRANK R. SCOTT, OF PORTSMOUTH. OHIO, ASSIGNCR TO THE SELBY SHOE COMPANY,

To r1?! whom it may 1107711771.

11 th t I FRANK It. Scorr. a plane of line 4-1l of Fig. 1. Dig. 5 repretstates, and resident sents a cross section through a shoe and last in the county of Scioto and after the inseam has been sewn. the plane have ilnent'ed certain new of this section corresponding to line 3- 3 ovements in Shoes. of which of Fig. 1. Fig. (i represents a cross section a specification.

lates to the structure of sponding to line -t-l of Fig. l.

particnlarlv to the The same reference characters indicate the used therein. purpose of the invention is I will first describe the insole, which. be-

lie it know citizen of th of Portsmouth, State of Ohio. and useful Impr the following is This invention re boots and shoes. structure of the insoles he primary OF PORTSMOUTH, OHIO, A CORPORATION OF OHIO.

SHOE.

Specification of Letters Patent. Pa touted lu y 30 1916.

Application filed October 12. 1915. Serial No. 55.541.

sents a cross section of. the insole in the through the shoe and last-in a plane corresa me parts wherever they occur.

to embody an arch-snpporting structure in cause of certain new features of construc- The upper being directly connected with each othe being taut when in use. form a so the arch of the foot. especially the of the arch. that is. the left-ham the right foot the left foot; a consequence of omitting, connecth it and the inner margin sole. In order this point. the insole is skive age for the arclnsupportin outer marginal portion arclrsupporting springing the insole edgewise the inner edge of the sh upwardly and press of the arch of the for Of the accompaIrving illustrate the invention F a bottom plan view of provided with hercinbefore the bottom plan vi represent 2*. runs; sc-fi plane of iine is (if the latter cl of soft pliable l d to a thin edge.

of the shoe.

the arctrsupporting Fig. 2 represe; ew of an ontsole.

'iif'i of the Piruv iiin .x

Fig. 1} ie rc of th crease in doubled relation. The

and tlon. constitutes the foundation of the in shoes which are construct \cntion. The insole is indicated at 10. In ch-snpporting eti'ect. such the present instance it is intended for a welt ing an arch-sup shoe and is therefore prepared in such inanother than the shoe itself. Her as to provide a marginal feather 11. a arch-supporting struc lip 12. a channel 123. and a channel tlap 14. nto the shoe structure. In the conventional insole for welt shoes arabl part of the shoe. the lip and channel begin at one side of the i m j rh -iv heel-seat portion and extend continuously ass, along one marginal portion of the insole. il er around the toe. and back along the other (it m-i i marginal portion of the insole to a point of portion of the insole th hecl-seat portion substantial]; opposite )0 upper at both sidesthe starting point, In the present instance. m S 1., S a li however. the lip and channel end. at the inank portion of the, insole. ner marginal portion of the insole. at a point d h alphvgllppgl'ting pinto which is substantially at the junction of the flntl shank portion and forepart. this point hei f ing usnallv called the ball portion. (In Fig. inner side 1 this point is indicated at 15. The lip and id f channel extend around the forepart and d th -j hph d 1.1. f along the outer marginal portion to of tho nd this support is pliable in shank portion. but the channel flap is m hotwppli snipped at 17. The inner marginal portion al portion of th inof the shank portion is skived to a thin ed e to amplif the flexibility at 1 the area of the skived portion being deinn rm rgin l ti n f h lined by line 19 in conjunction with the The anchor .1

; piece i t the piece 90 of tough pliable material. such The as upper leather. is arranged against the by bottom of the shank portion of the insole.

so as to cause Although I have mentioned leather, other ank portion to bulge material such as duck or canvas could.he against the inner side used to provide the piece 20. The inner marginal portion of the piece 2 is creased drawings. which or doubled. as indicated at 21. to provide igure 1 represents a stitchreceiving lip or flange 22. In order an insole which is to hold the lip or flange 22 in the desired piece position for receiving the inseam stitches ii a the piece 20 stitched close to the crease.

a the -titchcs 23 bridging across the crease o hold the n'iater al at opposite sides stitches 23 do not need to be any stronger than is necessary to hold the creased member in the condition shown by Figs. 1 and 3. until the inseam of the shoe is sewn; and, so long as they hold the lip in StltClld'BCQiV- ing position until the inseam is sewn, it does not matter whether they are ruptured by the relatively heavy stresses incidental to the inseam-sewing operation. The crease 21 is curved inwardly to conform or lie parallel to the incurred edge 18 of the insole, and the piece 20 is attached temporarily to the insole in such position that the lip 22 will be in line with the stitch-receiving lip 12 of the insole and form a continuation of the latter lip. As shown by Fig. 1, the lips 12 and 22 are arranged in abutting end-to-end relation at the point indicated at 15. In consequence of this arrangement of the two lips, the sewing needle of an inseam sewing machine may pass from the lip 12 to the lip or vice versa, and sew a continuous inseam from the heel seat to the heel seat. the lip 22 being thus caught by the inseam stitches, just as though it were in fact integral. with the lip 12.

In arranging the piece 20 against the insole, the outer marginal portion of the said piece is tucked into the channel 13 as shown by Fig. 3, the piece so being creased as in dicated at 24. and the crease being tucked into the angle formed by the channel and channel flap. This operation provides a stitclrreceiving lip or flange 25 which lies against the inner surface of the channel flap, and when the inseam stitches are sewn along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion, they pass through the piece 20 at the crease 24 and become anchored in the latter as shown by Fig. 5. Any suitable means may be employed for temporarily attaching the piece 21) to the insole. For example. the piece 21) may be attached by cement as indicated at :26 in Fig. 3. or it may be attached by short tacks indicated at 27 in Fig. 1, or by both cement and tacks. If tacks are used. they would preferably be pulled out as soon as the inseam had been sewn. The purpose in suipping the channel flap as indicated a1 17 is to enable the channel flap, along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion. to stand away from the insole as shown by Fig. 3, while that portion of the channel flap which is upon the forepart may lie close to the insole as shown by Fig. +1. This enables the lip or flange of the piece 20 to remain in the position shown by Fi 3 instead of being folded back as would be the case if the contiguous portion of the channel flap were left in the position shown in Fig. 4, and the sewing of the inseam along the shank portion therefore facilitated.

In using the insole which I have described, the laster would attach the same temporarily to the bottom of a last 28, as by driving tacks through. the insole into, the last. The insole would be placed upon the last in such relation that the heel portion would be offset laterally, toward the outer side of the last from final position, and the forepart of the insole would be fastened to-the last, leaving the heel of the insole unfastened for the time being. The laster would then spring the heel portion to the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1. thus creating a fullness in the shank portion of the insole along the inner side of the latter, and such fullness would be pressed against the last so as to conform to the arch formation.

A shoe upper is indicated at 2 in Figs. 5 and 6. I have not attempt-ed to differentiate between the leather and the lining of the upper, and the element 29 may be regarded as comprising both of these elements. lVhen the lasting operation has been finished, the shoe is ready for the inseam sewing operation. In consequence of sewing the inseam and of attaching a welt strip 30 simultaneously therewith. the outer marginal portion of the piece 20 is caught by the inseam stitches 31 and is thereby anchored to the insole and to the other elements of the between substance along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion. The welt strip is continuous from the heel-seat portion at one side of the shoe, along that side and around the toe and along the opposite side to the heel-seat portion. Around the forepart of the shoe the inseam stitches 32 pass through the. welt. the pulled-over portion of the upper, and the between substance of the insole, as shown by Fig. (3. Along the inner side of the shank portion of the shoe the inseam stitches 33 pass through the welt. the pulled-over portion of the upper, and the creased portion 21 of the piece 20, but not through any portion of the insole. (See Fig. 5). The upper and the piece 20 are thus directly connected with each other in a taut condition, forming a sling, as it. were, for supporting the inner marginal portion of the insole. If tacks 27 are employed to hold the piece 20 in the desired position against the insole, they may be withdrawn after the inseam has been sewn. If cement is used to hold the piece 20, it will not pre vent the inner marginal portion of the insolo from creeping relatively to the piece. 20 and upper when the shoe is in use, for although it may .be suilicient to hold the piece .20 to the insole prior to use of the shoe, the connection afforded by it would become ruptured in consequence of use of the shoe. and the inner marginal portion would therefore become automatically freed from the contiguous portion of the piece 2 in consequ nce of use. This freedom to creep, and the fact that the inner marginal pm'tlwll of the insole i skived to a thin edge along the shank portion. make the arch-supporting structure pliable and capabio, of conforming to the shape of the arch porti n of the foot.

As hereinbet'ore uplained. th inner marginal portion ot the llls'tilG receives an arch formation in consequence of springing the heel portion of the insole as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1. Such arch formation may be reinfor ed by likewise springing the outsole 31. For example. the excess stock of the inseam having been trinnned as is customary after the inseam has been sewn, and the shoe is otherwise prepared for the reception of the outs-ole, the forepart of the latter would be temporarily fastened to the shoe, leaving the shank and heel portions unfastened for the time being, but offset laterally toward the outer side of the shoe from the position which they will ultimately occupy. After the forepart of the outsole has been fastened as just stated, the heel portion would be sprung toward the inner side of the shoe as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 2. thus causing an arch formation aloiig the inner marginal portion of the. shank portion, conforming to that of the insole. 'lhe arch formation would be fixed in consequence of stitching the outsole and permitting the shoe to dry on the last.

A shoe made. in accordance with the method h reinbefore described will have two distinct arch-supporting formations. First. that. caused by springing both soles or the insole alone. and. second, that caused by the c njoint etft ct of the piece 20 and upper 29. The pliability of the arch-supporting structure is due in part to the skiving of the inner marginal portion of the insole and in part to the omission of connecting means between said portion and the other elements of the shoe: but the shoe is not weakened in consequence of such omission, because the piece 20 forms a continuation of the upper and is anchored by the inseam stitches 31 along the outer n'iarginal portion of the shank portion of the shoe.

The scope of the, invention, so far piece 2 is concerned, is not necessarily limited to passing the inseam stitches 31 through the outer marginal portion of the shank portion of the insole, for it it were desired to omit the stitch-receiving element t'i-an the outer marginal portion ot' the sl ank portion of the. insole. the outer marginal portion of the. piece 20 would nevertheless be united by the stitches 31 with the upper and welt strip along the outer side of the shoe, and would form a connection substantially like that. which includes the inseam stitches l" in Fig. 5. For most purposes. however..l'consider it preferable to provide the outer marginal portion of the shank portion of the insole with a. stitchas the receiving element and to pass the. inseam stitches i]. therethrough as shown by Fig. 5. The outward appearance of the shoe is not altered by the inclusion of the piece 20, and the continuity of the Welt; strip is not interrupted. The inseam sewing operation is performed just as though the lip 12 of the insole were continued along the inner marginal portion of the shank portion, and the usual inseam stitches are all that; is required to attach the piece 20.

I claim:

1. In combination, an insole having an in "am lip on its forepart. one end of said lip being at the inner marginal portion of the junction of the shank portion and ball portion, and a piece of relatively limber sheet material arranged against the bottom of said shank portion, said piece. being substantially coextensive with said shank portion. the inner marginal portion of said piece being arranged to form a continuation of said ip, the outer marginal portion being arranged to be caught by the inseam stitches near the outer edge of said shank portion. and means temporarily connecting said piece with said insole to keep them in the desired relation.

2. In combination, an insole having an in seam lip on its forepart, one end of said lip being at the inner marginalportion of the junction of the shank portion and ball portion, a piece of relatively limber sheet material arranged against the bottom of said shank portion. said piece being substantially coextensive w'h said shank portion. the inner marginal portion of said l arranged to form a continuation andnieans forming a rupturable connection between said shank portion and said piece.

In combination, an insole having an ins am lip extending around the forepart and along the outer marginal portion ofthe shank portion, one end o said lip being at the inner of said lip.

marginal portion of the unction of the shank portion and ball portion. and a piece of relatively timber against the bottom said piece being sheet material arranged of said shank portion. substantially coextensive. with said shank portion, the inner marginal portion of said piece being arranged to form a continuation of said lip. the outer n|arginal portion oi' said piece being arranged to be caught by the inseam stitches which pass through said lip along the outer marginal portion of said shank portion.

4. In combination, an insole having an inseam lip, an inseam channel, and a channel tlap. extending around the forepart and along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion. one end of said lip and tlap being at the inner marginal portion of the junction of the shank portion and ball portion, and a piece of relatively limber rangwl against; the bottom of said shank por sheet material artion, said piece being substantially coextensive with said shank portion, the inner marginal portion of said piece being arranged to form a continuation of said lip, said piece having a crease arranged in the angle of said channel and [hip along the outer marginal portion of said shank portion. the hater marginal portion of said piece being arranged to be caught by the inseam stitches which pass through said lip and tlap along the outer marginal portion of said shank portion.

5. In coml'nation, an insole having an inseam lip extending along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion and around the .t'orepart to the junction of the shank por' tion and ball portion at the inner marginal portion of the insole, said lip ending at said junction, and a piece oi relatively limber sheet material y/ranged against the bottom of said shank lortioll, said piece being substantially coextensive with said shank por-- tion, said piece having an incurved crease extending substantially longitudinally of the insole and substantiallyin line with said lip, the inner marginal portion of said piece, as defined by said crease, being arranged to form a continuation of said lip, and stitches bridging across said crease and connecting said inner marginal portion of said piece with the body portion of said piece to hold said inner marginal portion in position to be caught by the inseam stitches the outer margii'ial portion of said piece being arranged to be caught by the inseam stitches which pass through said lip along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion.

is. shoe comprising an upper. an insole. a welt strip, and a piece of relatively limber sheet material arranged against the bottom of the shank portion of said insole, said welt strip extending along the inner outer sides of the shank portion of the shoe, said piece. said insole. said upper, and said welt strip. being connected along the outer side oi the shank portion oi the shoe, and the inner marginal portion of said piece, the inner marginal portion of said upper, and said \Ytll. strip being united by inseam stitches. said insole being free from said stitches.

T. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, a cit strip. and a piece of relatively limber sheet material arranged against the bottom of the shank portion of said insole. said welt strip extending along the inner and outer sides of the shank portion of the shoe. said piece. said insole. said upper, and said welt and strip, being connected along the outer side of the shank portion of the shoe, the inner marginal portion of said piece and the inner marginal portion of said upper being arranged to extend away from the bottom of said insole to form a stitch-receiving flange, and being united with said welt strip by inseam stitches, said insole being free from said stitches.

8. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, a welt strip, and a piece of relatively limber sheet material arranged against the bottom of the shank portion of said insole, said welt strip extending along the inner and outer sides of the shank portion of the shoe, the inner marginal portion of said piece being arranged to extend away from said insole to form a stitch-receiving flange, said welt strip being. arranged in coo erative relation to said marginal portion to form the inseam, and the inner marginal portion of said upper being arranged between said welt strip and said portion of said piece, said welt strip and said two portions being united by inseam stitches, said insole being free from said inseam stitches, said upper,-said insole, said welt strip, and said piece-being connected along the outer side of the shank portion of the shoe.

0. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole, a welt strip. and a piece of relatively liinber sheet material arranged against the bottom of the shank portion'of said insole, said welt strip extending around the forepart and along the inner and outer sides of the shank portion of the shoe, said insole having an inseam lip extending along the outer marginal portion of the shank portion and around the forepart, one end of said lip being at the inner marginal portion of the junction of the ball portion and shank portion of the insole: the inner marginal portion of said piece being arranged to form a, continuation of said lip; the latter said portion, said upper, and said Welt strip being united by inseam stitches along the inner side of the shank portion of the shoe; said insole being free from said stitches; said piece, said upper, and said welt strip being united by inseam stitches along the outer side of the shank portion of the shoe; said welt, said lip. and said upper being united by inseam stitches around the forepart of the shoe.

In testimony whereof I have signature.

aflix'ed my FRANK it. SCOTT. 

